Kompong Thom is about 146km south east of Siem Reap on the road to Phnom Penh, and is one of the five provinces surrounding the Tonle Sap Lake. It is another sleepy Provincial capital, but the ruins of nearby Sambor Prei Kuk do make it a more rewarding stop than many others. If you are travelling on the road between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap it is a pleasant place to stop, and is a good base from which to explore the pre-Angkorian Tchen-La capital of Sambor Prei Kuk, and the hilltop temple of Phnom Suntok.
Getting to the Temples
The road between Kompong Thom and Sambor Prei Kuk is greatly improved. The 35km ride takes about 1 hour. There are two routes, neither of which is straightforward. It is best to take a guide from Kompong Thom even if you have your own transport. Arrange a moto driver for the day and expect to pay US$6-US$8. The cheapest way to get here is by remorque-moto (a kind of large 4-wheeled cart attached to a motorcycle), but it will take closer to 3 hours. Locals often refer to the temples themselves as Prasat Prei Kuk. Entry is free but a ‘voluntary contribution’ system is in operation.
Ku Hak Nor Nor
Ku Hak Nor Kor temple is 40,000m square in area (200m x 200m), and is located close to the Ku Hak Nor Kor pagoda in Tro Dok village. Turn left off National Highway No.6, and follow a red-soil track for 2km. Ku Hak Nor Kor temple is made of laterite stone like the Tonle Ba Ti Temple, and was built in the 11th century during the reign of king Suryavarman I. Ku Hak Nor Kor temple is 45m long and 35m wide, surrounded by a 3m high wall. The temple is divided into three tiers.
Sambor Prey Kuk Temple
Located in Sam Bor village, it is 37km from Kampong Thom on National Highway No.64. It is a former capital, and was previously named Ey San Borak. A religious center dedicated to Shiva, Sambor Prey Kuk temple is made of solid brick and some laterite stone, and is decorated with sculptures.
The artistic front of Sar Sar Pich and the doorframes are made of sandstone. Sam Bor Prey Kuk temple was built during the reign of King Isanavarman I in the 7th century. The temple was abandoned in 1971 and restored in 1980. A further 140 sites have been found in the forest nearby, and two others, known to exist, have yet to be discovered. Pra Sat Sam Bor Prey Kuk is in four big groups as follows:
Northern temples: Called Pra Sat Sam Bor, and located at the centre of the site, this group is surrounded by various smaller temples.
Mid-temples: Called Pra Sat Tor, these can only be entered via the northern door, as the other doors are purely decorative. There are four stairs, one from each direction, and each has two figures of lions called Te Vak Kak Tha. West of Pra Sat Tor are groups of smaller temples.
Southern temples: Called Pra Sat Ba Yon and located at the centre, surrounded by many temples, Pra Sat Ba Yon has two classes of ramparts. The inside rampart has Ba Rak lions facing in each direction. Pra Sat Ba Yon is the former capital.
Prasat Kruol Ro Meas: This group is north of Prasat Sam Bor Prey Kuk. The temples are small and made of brick. One to the west is made of laterite stone.
Preah Khan: The vast laterite and sandstone temple of Preah Khan, originally dedicated to Hindu deities, was reconsecrated to Buddhist worship in the early 11th century.
Nearby monuments: Preah Damrei is guarded by massive elephants. Phrea Thkol is a cruciform shrine 2km east of the central group. Preah Stung, 2km southeast of the main group, includes a tower with four faces.
Wat Prasat is located at Pra Sat village, 31km from Kompong Thom. The temple of Wat Pra Sat was built in the 7th century and made of brick. It has one very special feature; seven statues made of hardwood. These were carved at the time the temple was constructed, and have remained intact since then, and they are still kept inside the temple.
Wat Kampong Thom, also called Wat En Try Sa Mak Vo Rak, or Wat Khet Kampong Thom, is located at Kdey village, 1km from Kompong Thom, on National Highway No.6. Wat Kampong Thom is a religious site (Ancient Temple) with a 205-sq. meter area.
Wat Kdey Deum, located at Kampong Chen village, is 51km from Kompong Thom on National Highway No.6, and has a similar history and architecture to Banteay Srey temple. It is fronted by two ponds.
Wat Pra Sat An Det is located in Pra Sat Village, 27km from Kompong Thom. Follow a track for 1.75km. Wat Pra Sat An Det is an ancient temple. Behind Preah Vihea there is a temple made of brick dating from between the 6th and 7th centuries and built during the reign of Yasovarman I. In addition, the temple has many beautiful open spaces flanked by tall Kor Ki trees, and mysteriously it has never been inundated.
Prey Pros Resort
A local resort located in Prey Priel village, 16km from the Kompong Thom. The resort is large and has been designated as the venue for local running and bicycle races, and other entertainment and games during feast days and national festivals. The resort of Prey Pros covers an area of 2,000,000 sq. meters. This figure also includes the 120,000m square of land around Wat Pra Sat.
Prsat Preah Theat
Located on National Highway No. 6, 14km (30min.) from Kompong Thom, there are some ancient buildings.
Boeung Per
Wildlife & Nature Reserve on Nat. Road No.64, in Boeung Per Village, 31 km (1 hour) from Kompong Thom.
Boeung Tonle Chhmar
Wildlife & Nature Reserve on National Road No. 6, in Pov Veuy Village, 85km (8 hours) from Kompong Thom.
Where to Stay
There is a range of accommodation available in Kompong Thom, tailored to every budget. At the inexpensive end, there are several guesthouses which double as brothels and make more money from this oldest of trades than from tourism! These are down a side road off Highway No.6, opposite the market.
Arunras Restaurant has a hotel and guesthouse next door. Guesthouse rooms with a fan cost as little as $6 / night. The restaurant is often used as a pit-stop by buses travelling to Phnom Penh, making the Arunras a useful staging-post if you plan to visit Sambor Prey Kuk.
Penh Chet Guesthouse: Basic rooms with fan and shared bathroom, R 10,000. Located near the main road.
Sok San Guesthouse: Similar rooms for US$4.
Mohaleap Guesthouse: offers the best deal with new, clean double rooms, fan and basic bathroom for US$3.
Neak Meas Hotel: On National Road 6. has Air-con double rooms with TV, fridge and bathroom for US$15 (US$10 if you are prepared to walk to the top floor).
Vimean Suor Guesthouse: clean double rooms with ceiling fan and nice bathroom for just US$6.
Stoeng Sen Hotel: The most expensive hotel in town has fully furnished air-con rooms for US$20 or US$25 if you want something slightly bigger.
Where to Eat
There are not many options here, and most restaurants are more like nightclubs. There is little food available, but the beer flows like a river.
Arunras Restaurant has a large, indoor seating area. The restaurant only serves Khmer food but the standard of cuisine is high.
The street restaurant across the road from the Arunras [next to the bus-drop and local market] is purely for the more adventurous western traveller and serves hard-core Khmer food. You’ll also need to speak some Khmer in order to get served – the staff do not speak English.
The Monorom Restaurant is the highest quality establishment in town, and is across the river, next door to the 7 Makara Nightclub. The location and the atmosphere is very similar to the Khmer restaurant beyond the Japanese bridge in Phnom Penh. It is raised up on stilts, and is home to a good number of Khmer regulars at night. The Arunras Restaurant is another reputable place with good food, and is located in the center of town.
No comments:
Post a Comment